Pencil Skirt Sewing Pattern and Tutorial. Step-by-step guide.

If you’ve ever wanted to create a timeless and flattering pencil skirt sewing pattern that perfectly fits your unique curves, you’re in luck.

In this article, we’ll guide you through the process of drafting a simple pencil skirt pattern for knit fabrics explicitly tailored for your size.

I have also included clear instructions and helpful tips to sew your skirt from start to finish.

This sewing project will be an enjoyable and stress-free experience.

So grab your measuring tape, dust off your sewing machine, and let’s make this gorgeous new garment together!

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About this Pattern.

You are going to be amazed at how quickly this skirt is going to be put together. The pattern is so SIMPLE to draft that I didn’t feel the need to make a PDF sewing pattern. 

Believe me. It is going to take you longer to print and assemble a PDF pattern than it is going to take just to draft it on your favorite pattern maker’s paper.

Pencil skirts are a piece of wardrobe that can do wonders with women’s figures. This type of skirt enhances your body’s natural curves and is an excellent element for any outfit. It would make you look classy and, at the same time, give you a flare of sexy.

And the best part is that this draft only has three pieces of patterns, two of which are the same, with minor twitches. Which, of course, will make the sewing tutorial as fast as the drafting tutorial.

That was what I wanted to give you for this week’s sewing tutorial. A piece of garment that you could make in an instant (well, what it will feel like an instant, anyway). 

First things first.

What is a pencil skirt?

A pencil skirt is a popular type of women’s garment that is known for its tailored and fitted silhouette around a woman’s lower body.

This type of skirt is designed to fit closely to the body and is usually high-waisted. They are narrow at the hem, which creates a slimming effect.

Pencil skirts can vary in length but often fall to the knee or just below the knee. However, they can also be found in shorter or longer lengths to suit different fashion preferences.

You can wear a pencil skirt in all sorts of places, from a professional business outfit to a casual event. And it will all depend on the type of fabric and styling you give it. 

How much Fabric is needed for a pencil skirt?

The amount of fabric you require to make a pencil skirt will vary depending on the size, length, and width of the fabric you will use. Other factors to consider are if your fabric has a nap or a directional pattern. In these last two cases, you would have to cut your pattern pieces, taking that into account, and you might require more fabric than usual.

However, I can give you an estimated yardage for the amount of fabric you will need for your pencil skirt if you are cutting a length of 24″ to 27″, as I did here.

For a knee-length pencil skirt (approximately 22-24 inches in length) made from 45-inch-wide fabric:

• For sizes XS to M: You will need approximately 1.5 to 2 yards (1.4 to 1.8 meters) of fabric.
• For sizes L to XL: You will need approximately 2.25 to 2.5 yards (2 to 2.3 meters) of fabric.

For a knee-length pencil skirt (approximately 22-24 inches in length) made from 60-inch-wide fabric:

• For sizes XS to M: You will need approximately 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of fabric.
• For sizes L to XL: You will need approximately 1.75 to 2.25 yards (1.6 to 2.1 meters) of fabric.

• READ THIS TOO:
• How to Draft A Bodice Sloper Pattern
• How to Draft a Basic Sleeve Pattern
• How to Draft a Half-Circle Skirt Sewing Pattern

How do you draft a basic pencil skirt pattern?

This free pattern drafting is going to blow your mind. The reason why it is so simple is that we are drafting the pattern for knit fabrics, which means it has no darts or seam allowances (except for the hem). 

This pattern has negative ease, which means it will end up fitting close to your body’s shape. 

Materials:

To start drafting this pattern, you will need to take 4 of your body measurements: your waist and hip seat girth, the hip height, and the length you want your skirt to be (taken from the waistline down).

Also, if you have a set of basic pattern rulers, it will be much easier for you to draft this pattern. We will need the “L,” “Curve,” and the “Transparent” rulers. If you don’t already have a set of pattern-making rulers, I recommend you get the Fairgate rulers kit. These are the ones I have had for the last 12 to 15 years of my career, and they are as good as new.

Finally, get your favorite pattern maker’s paper so you can draft the pattern.

Let’s get started with this pattern.

Drafting the Pencil Skirt Sewing Pattern FRONT.

1. From A to B, draw a vertical line that measures the length you want your skirt to be.
2. Then, square a horizontal line from A to C that measures ¼ of your hip seat girth -¼”. 
3. Square down a vertical line from C to D that measures the skirt length—Square D to B.
4. Mark down the hip height from A to E and from C to F. Connect F to E with a horizontal line.
5. From A to G, mark ¼ of your waist circumference -¼”. 
6. Use your curve ruler to connect the points G to F.
7. From D to H, mark 1”. 
8. Connect F to H with the less curved part of your curve ruler.

Drafting the Pencil Skirt Sewing Pattern BACK.

To draft this skirt’s back pattern, we will use the front panel we just made as a template and change a few things. So go ahead and copy the front panel or place the pattern maker’s paper above it to draft the back.

1. From A to I, mark ½”, and then use a curve ruler to connect I to G. This is the waistline of the front panel.
2. Mark ⅝” from A to J, and then use a curve ruler to connect J to G. This is the waistline of the back panel.
3. From K to L, mark ⅝” and then use your ruler to make a straight line from L to H.
4. Add ½” to 1” on the hemline seam allowance.

Awesome! You are almost there. You are done with the front and back panels, and we are only missing the waistband. Let’s do that.

Drafting the Pencil Skirt Sewing Pattern WAISTBAND.

To draft the waistband for our skirt, we will need the front and back measurements of the waistline (which, incidentally, in this case, are the same measurement).

So, first, add the pattern-cutting notes to your patterns and then measure the waistlines M and N. 

Now, let’s draft the waistband. I am going to make a simple 1” tall waistband, so I don’t have to modify our original pattern.

1. From O to P, draw a horizontal line that measures (M + N) – 1”. 
2. Make a vertical line from P to Q that measures 2 ¼”. 
3. Square a rectangle and add the pattern-cutting notes.

And that’s it!! Those are the three pieces you need for your pencil skirt pattern. 

Wasn’t easy??? Now, let’s sew it!

Pencil Skirt Sewing Tutorial.

Gurl, if you thought drafting that pattern we just did was easy, you are not going to believe this next part of the tutorial.

Sewing this skirt is so straightforward I bet you can make two or three in a row and still have time to take pictures.

So, the first thing to do, obviously, is to cut your pattern pieces according to the pattern-cutting instructions we wrote on each piece.

Let’s do this.

Importance of choosing the right fabric for a pencil skirt.

As I told you at the beginning of this post, this is a pencil skirt for knit fabrics. This pattern has a negative ease, meaning you will need a stretchy fabric to sew the pattern.

I recommend choosing a fabric with at least 100% two-way stretch. 

Also, if you want to know which is the suitable fabric for this project, check our post about the Different Types of Knit Fabrics, which will teach you how to choose the best knit fabric for each one of your patterns.

Join the Front and Back panels.

The first thing to do is to place the front and back panels with the wrong sides facing together and align the sides.

Use your serger machine or a zig-zag stitch on your home machine to sew the sides.

Sew The Waistband.

Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and close the shorter ends with a serger or zig-zag stitch. 

Then, fold the waistband in half widthwise and divide it into four equal parts. Mark each of these parts with pins or a marking sewing tool.

Fold the skirt’s waistline in four equal parts, too, and then match the waistband with the skirt’s waistline. Use your serger to stretch and sew these two pieces together, but leave about 2” to 3” without sewing.

Insert a piece of elastic with the help of your drawstring threader tool that measures the same as your waistband length (once it is sewn). 

When you have the two ends of the elastic, overlap them about 1” in total and secure them by making a square cross stitch (see image below). 

Finally, close the open seam with your serger or a zig-zag stitch.

Making the Hem.

Fold the edge of the skirt’s hem towards the wrong side of the fabric ½” and press it down. Repeat this step and press again. 

Then, sew your hem with a stretch stitch like a zig-zag or a lighting stitch.

And that is it, my friend!! You have a new brand pencil skirt, all finished and done!! 

Please don’t leave without posting your new skirt on social media and tagging me with @mygoldenthimble so I can see how it turned out! Also, let me know in the comments if you found this helpful tutorial or have any questions. 

Thank you for sharing this tutorial with me. I hope to see you soon!