Master Your Topstitching: Step-by-Step Tutorial + Useful Tips

Welcome to our detailed and easy guide, where you will learn everything about topstitching seams in sewing.

Topstitching is one of those sewing techniques that you are most likely to find in any sewing tutorial.

It is very important to learn how to do it correctly, and that is why we are here today.

In this tutorial, you will learn, in an easy way, when and exactly how to use a topstitch in your sewing projects.

You’ll see how easy it is and the level of detail this seam can give your sewing projects.

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What is Topstitching?

A topstitch is a straight seam visible on the right side of a garment, and it typically “outlines” the seams of said garment. You are essentially creating a line of stitches on top of the fabric, which runs parallel to the seam line.

The best example of topstitching seams is denim clothes and the famous design element of mustard topstitching seams. 

And the thing is that topstitching can be both decorative and/or functional. 

Yes! Either or both!

When it comes to jeans and denim jackets, topstitching serves two purposes—it adds a nice touch to the design and also helps to strengthen the seams.

Cool, huh?

Decorative Topstitching

When it is for decorative purposes only, you will find that this stitching will be in a different contrasting color than the fabric, or it can also be in the same color, but the thread of that seam will be thicker. 

This is with the intention of making these seams stand out in our designs. It can also be a compelling design element for clothing or accessories.

Functional Topstitching 

On the other hand, you can also use topstitching to strengthen seams in areas that need to be reinforced so that they do not tear or wear with use or time.

When it comes to denim clothes, it’s pretty obvious they’re meant to be used roughly. So, manufacturers add topstitching to strengthen the seams. 

But why do these seams have a strengthening effect?

By sewing through all the layers of the garment, including the seam allowances, the topstitching helps to hold the fabric layers together, creating a stronger and more durable seam. That makes about three layers of fabric holding those seams, plus an extra seam (the topstitching). 

Functional topstitching works great on heavier fabrics like canvas, denim, or leather. In fact, if you see any purse or bag, it will most likely have a topstitch holding the seams.

Tools and Materials for Topstitching

To make a pretty and neat topstitching, you will need tools and materials specifically designed for this type of seam.

1. Topstitching Thread- These threads are thicker, which makes your finished project look more professional and cool.
2. Topstitching Needle- A topstitching needle will have a bigger eye so the thicker topstitching thread can go through. 
3. Marking Tools for Sewing- Markers, chalk, or any other marking tool to mark the lines you want to sew.

Topstitching thread is fantastic for decorative topstitching. The thicker thread makes the seams stand out and has a different shine. Choose the color depending on your design. Use the same color to emphasize details, but if you want to highlight the seams, use a contrasting color!

*Pro Sewist Tip: If you don’t have a topstitching thread on hand, thread your machine normally with two strands of regular thread instead.*

I do not have fancy sewing shops near my home, so I need to improvise when I come up with a sewing dilemma.

Whenever I am sewing something, and I don’t have a topstitching thread on hand, this is the trick I use.

I will put the extra spool pin that comes with the machine so I can use two thread strands of the same color, which will visually make a thicker thread effect. And tada! You have a topstitch thread mockup seam! 

You don’t have to worry about anything really. Just thread your sewing machine normally with the two strands of each spool simultaneously.

Just remember that you will be using a regular thread spool on the bobbin case. This will help us balance the seam and give it the final look we want.

Sewing Machine Settings for Topstitching

A topstitch is a reinforcement seam, meaning it doesn’t need the same tension settings as the regular seams your project needs. 

The goal of our topstitching is to make it decorative and functional. 

For that, our needle thread needs two things: a perfect tension balance and a longer stitch.

Balancing tension prevents the top threads from showing on the back of our garment. Always test-run your sewing machine on a scrap of fabric to determine the perfect thread tension. 

Secondly, for the longer stitch length, I recommend going anywhere above 3.5mm. I like to use a 4.0 mm straight stitch for my topstitching. But I will reduce it to 3.5 if I am working with lighter-weight fabrics. 

So, for regular medium-weight fabrics with topstitch thread, my settings will look like this:

• Sewing Thread Tension: 6-7
• Stitch Length: 4.0

Remember to do your own testing with the same number of layers you will end up having on your fabric to see what settings you like best.

How to Make a Top Stitch

1. Press your seams to one side.

You can totally topstitch over open seams, but when you throw and press both seam allowances to a single side, you will have more layers and, therefore, a thicker, stronger seam.

So, if possible, press both seam allowances to one side of your project.

2. Thread your machine and fix the settings.

Use your topstitch needle and thread, and thread your machine normally. Remember that the bobbin thread should remain using regular thread.

I talked in much detail about which settings a sewing machine should be for topstitching. 

Start with these settings and modify them as needed to have a balanced thread tension.

• Sewing Thread Tension: 6-7
• Stitch Length: 4.0

3. Align your presser foot and start sewing. 

First of all, pull both the tails of the thread spool and bobbin behind the presser foot.

Do not make a backstitch at these seams’ beginning or end. I will show you how to finish them later.

Align the presser foot so your needle is at least 1/8″ from the folded edge of the seam. I like to use this part of my presser foot as a guide. But remember, you can also move the needle to the left or right as needed.

You can also use fabric marking tools to draw the lines you want to topstitch. This step is particularly useful when making topstitching patterns.

Pull the threads behind the foot and start sewing a straight stitch. 

4. Making a double topstitch.

To achieve the effect of denim topstitches, you need to sew a parallel seam line next to the original one. To make it look more authentic, ensure the distance between these two seams is 1/4 inch.

This spacing will help you create a neat and uniform appearance of topstitching on your denim fabric.

So, take your time and precisely sew the second seam, making sure that it is straight and runs parallel to the first one.

5. Finish the seams.

Finishing topstitching seams is super easy! 

The main idea is that as this is a decorative stitch, you want to keep it as clean as possible on the right side of the garment. 

Now, for a regular project, you will be topstitching as you sew the garment so the ends of the seams will actually just get trapped between the seam allowances of the next seam you make.

But just in case this is not the case for you, finishing a topstitching seam is very simple.

Grab the bobbin thread tail from the back and gently pull it so the topstitching thread starts coming out of the back. Use a pin or your seam ripper point to help it pass all the way through.

When both tails are on the same side, make a tiny knot and cut away the excess threads.

Tips and Tricks for the Perfect Topstitching Seam

Here are my top tips to get PERFECT topstitches for your projects.

By following these tips and tricks, you’ll be able to master the art of topstitching and create beautifully finished garments with professional-looking seams and details.

1. Press your seams before topstitching.
2. Pull the thread tails before starting each seam.
3. Choose the best thread for topstitching depending on your fabric color, weight, and design. 
4. Practice on a scrap of fabric before sewing your garment.
5. Don’t backstitch your seams.
6. If you don’t have a topstitching thread, use two threads as a substitute.
7. Always use regular thread on your bobbin.
8. Edge stitching with a presser foot, such as a blind hem foot or a stitch-in-the-ditch foot, is amazing for precision.
9. Use a seam jumper for bulky seams.
10. If you have to unpick the seam, do it from the back and then pull the topstitching thread on the front.

Creative Ways to Use Topstitichng in Garment Construction

Topstitching has been used for decades in stunning and very creative ways in fashion design to highlight seams, emphasize details, and even create an interesting texture on your fabrics.

For example, to highlight seams, you can use a contrasting color thread and make topstitching along the seams of a garment. As I stated before, with this technique, it is almost as if you were outlining the shapes of each pattern piece (the neckline, a collar, a hem) to make them stand out even more. 

Now, if you want to stand out in a particular detail on your design, use top stitching to emphasize it. You can use it on the edges of the seams of pockets, darts, and even pleats! 

On the other hand, you can make several parallel topstitching seams to create a unique texture, like the patches on leather biker pants like this one.

If you want to add a little bit of creativity to your garment construction, try incorporating some topstitching. It’s a simple technique that can take your clothing to the next level!

And that’s it, my dear friend!! Do you have any questions?? Please let me know in the comments below so I can help you further!

Oh! And don’t forget to pin this tutorial for later!

Happy Sewing!