How to Sew an Overcast Stitch by Sewing Machine

If you want to prevent your fabric edges from fraying without using a serger, you’re in luck! In this post, I will show you how to sew an overcast stitch using your sewing machine.

You will learn that you don’t need a serger to make this type of stitch, which is very similar to an overlock stitch. 

In this easy guide, I will guide you through the process of using the overcast presser foot, selecting the best stitches on your machine, and creating the different types of overcasting stitches.

I will also give you my best tips and tricks to achieve flawless results. 

So, if you are ready, let’s begin this new journey!

NOTE: This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you make a purchase using one of the links in this article, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you (To know more about this, click here.)

While there are many sewing techniques for finishing the raw edges of your fabrics, an overcasting stitch is one of the quickest and easiest.

The best thing is that you only need your sewing machine and the overcasting presser foot attachment, which comes with most of them.

This stitch works best with cotton, linen, and other woven fabrics that unravel easily. It will also work with knit fabrics to finish edges and even join fabrics together while keeping their stretchability.

What’s the difference between an Overcast and an Overlock stitch?

While the overcasting stitch is very similar to the overlock stitches, they differ in a couple of things. 

Firstly, the overcast stitch won’t trim your fabric edges (unless you purchase a special presser foot) as a serger does. 

Secondly, the overcast stitch is shaped like a straight and a zig-zag stitch simultaneously, while the overlock stitch resembles a chain.

The overcasting stitch is still a very cost-effective solution for sewers who wish to have clean fabric edges and prevent them from fraying.

You can achieve all of this by using your sewing machine’s overcasting stitch and overcast presser foot.

What’s an Overcasting Presser Foot?

The Overcast Foot is a specialized presser foot designed to make overcasting stitches around the raw edges of fabrics, preventing them from fraying and unraveling.

This presser foot has an opening that allows the needle to move from one side to another in a zig-zag motion. A bar at the center helps form the stitches while holding the fabric flat underneath. One of the foot legs has an extension that helps to guide the fabric edge. 

In this picture, you can see three types of overcasting presser feet. The standard one is in the middle, typically included with your machine’s attachments. The one on the left has a taller bar, allowing more thread for specialty overcasting stitches. The one on the right has a flatter and wider bar in the middle, holding the fabric flat better, which is especially useful for lightweight fabrics like organza or satin.

I will show you the specialty overcasting stitches at the end of this post, so don’t worry.

This presser foot is really a must-have for anyone looking to achieve clean and professional-looking seams without investing in additional machines or equipment.

Step-by-step instructions for making an overcast stitch with a sewing machine

1. Attach the Overcasting Presser Foot

First things first, let’s get that overcasting presser foot attached to your machine. It’s super easy! Simply snap off your current presser foot and snap on the overcasting foot. 

You’ll hear a click that tells you it’s in place. You’re already halfway there!

2. Select the overcast stitch on your sewing machine

Next, it’s time to get your sewing machine ready for action. 

Look for the overcast stitch on your machine. It usually looks like a zigzag or a ladder. If you’re not sure which one it is, check your machine’s manual or look for a little diagram on your machine. 

There are three types of overcasting stitches, so let me tell you how to choose the best one for your fabrics.

• For light to medium-weight fabrics, use the overcasting stitch no. 1-13
• To reinforce heavyweight fabrics, use the overcasting stitch no.1-14
• For easily friable medium or heavyweight fabrics, use the overcasting stitch no. 1-15
• Finally, for seaming knit fabrics, use the overcasting stitch no.1-16

Note* Your machine may have different numbers for each seam. Just look for the same picture.

Once you’ve found it, select it, and you’re good to go.

3. Align the fabric with the foot’s guide

Now, let’s position the fabric. Place the fabric under the presser foot and align the edge with the foot’s guide. 

This guide is there to help you sew a perfect edge, so take a moment to line everything up nicely. Your future self will thank you!

4. Sew the overcasting stitch

Here comes the fun part – sewing! Start sewing your overcasting stitch along the edge of your fabric. The overcasting foot will keep everything in place, ensuring you get a clean and professional-looking edge.

And there you have it! You’ve just used an overcasting presser foot to create beautifully finished edges. But wait!!! 

There is more!

With this same foot and overcasting stitches, you can make other excellent finishes that can help make your projects more special! 

Come and see!

Other seams and finishes you can make with the Overcast Stitch and Presser Foot.

Rolled Hem

You can create a rolled hem mockup using an overcasting stitch by selecting the overcast stitch and shortening its length as much as possible. The narrower you make it, the fuller it will look.

Fringe Stitch

Make a fringe stitch using the overcasting presser foot with the tallest middle bar. Then select a wide overcasting stitch and sew it over your fabrics. Once you are done, use a pair of embroidery scissors to cut the seam from the right side. 

Join Seams

You can join two pieces of fabric at the same time you finish the raw edges with an overcasting stitch. To do it, you just have to select the overcast stitch. Align both layers of fabric with the feet’s guide and start sewing. 

Overcasting Stitch Recap

In conclusion, mastering the overcasting stitch on your sewing machine can provide you with a multitude of benefits. Not only does it help prevent fraying and unraveling of fabric edges, but it also creates a clean and professional finish to your projects.

Just a quick reminder:

• Make sure to use the proper tension settings on your sewing machine.
• Practice using scrap fabric before starting your actual project.
• Trim any excess seam allowance before applying an overcast stitch to make your seams look perfect. 

Please don’t hesitate to let me know in the comments if you have any questions about this technique or where you plan on using it. I’d love to hear from you.

Happy sewing!